News from Lanzarote and La Palma
La Palma December 2017
How is finca life treating you? We both miss you so much but we think we made the best choice for you. As we were coming down the south east tip of the island of Lanzarote, we entered the WAZ wind acceleration zone and it was so lumpy you wouldn’t have liked it. We were only going around the next corner to a beautiful beach to anchor. We tucked in behind the headland as tight as we could but it was still rolly.
Playa Blanca is a beautiful place with bleak bare hillsides and a really wild look about it and it has one of the few white sandy beaches on the island. It was such a lumpy night next morning we moved to the opposite end of the beach. It seemed a bit better there but the forecast was for the wind to get up. We spent a couple of days trying to get some jobs done but as the wind got wilder we just couldn’t hack it any longer. It was definitely not your kind of weather. We gave up and called the marina on the radio to reserve a place. Next thing we know we can’t leave the bay because the anchor is stuck under a ledge. High drama! In the end, we had to leave the anchor behind and high tail it into the marina before the storm really kicked in.
It took two days once the weather had calmed down, trawling up and down with the dinghy heads in the water, arses in the air looking for it. We did eventually find it and get it back on board. So much for a holiday, we were knackered!
Then we had a pretty lumpy sail to La Palma. It calmed down a bit by the middle of the second day but you wouldn’t have liked that trip either. In fact nearly all the sailing we have done this whole trip has been lumpy. Bella Bear has been winging about it like mad. She reckons you got the best deal. She wants to know why she couldn’t have stayed home too. Hugo Bear has been feeling rather poorly most of the trip. Bella keeps running off with his sea legs cos she doesn’t know where she left her own. She refuses to give them back so Hugo has been suffering.
Where we stayed at Marina Rubicon there is a lovely Passeo that runs all along the seafront for a couple of miles or so to the small town of Playa Blanca. All along the passeo someone has put little cat houses with cats names painted on them and food and water dishes inside and a little bed. There was Freddie’s house and Joeys house a whole array of them. We saw lots of pussy cats there, you’d have made tons of mates and all of them were big and fat and rather well fed, like yourself. Actually we have seen loads of cats everywhere we’ve been and all of them look healthy and fat. I thought the Canine Canary Islands would be full of dogs but no it’s all pussy cats round here.
As we approached the Island of La Palma it was dark again. The last day the sea had calmed down a lot and we had great wind so we picked up a bit of speed. Whatever we do we don’t seem to get the timing right to arrive in daylight. This time arriving in the dark was a really beautiful thing. As we closed the island you could see the tungsten yellow street lights dotted along all the lanes all around Santa Cruz and it was like someone had spread a lace table cloth over the island. I tried to take a couple of snaps but they didn’t work out. Like so many of the beautiful things we experience travelling on a boat, you have to be there to see them, blink and they are gone.
La Palma is famous for its clear skies and has been made a world heritage site for star-gazing. They have minimal street lighting to avoid light pollution etc. but as much as it’s beautiful there, nothing compares to the beautiful night skies we sailors see in the middle of the ocean. They are just another thing, impossible to photograph, on a constantly moving boat. I reckon for most of the best things in life you’ve simply got to be there.
We arrived in La Palma at silly o’clock in the morning. It’s a tiny little marina with lots of three point turns required to get yourself on and off the waiting pontoon and into a berth. Well we managed it, no scrapes, but it was a bit exciting in the middle of the night. I’m absolutely knackered and done in from the trip so I’ll sign off for now and get some shut eye for a few hours. We will be off exploring in the morning so I’ll tell you all about it in the next letter.
We all miss you like crazy, especially Bella because she says now she has to get the blame for everything.
Take care, lots of love.