The Salut Islands French Guiana
After a bit of a trying trip, we have arrived in the Island paradise of the Salut Islands just off the Coast of French Guiana. There was a big nasty swell again as we left the coast of Brazil. We also had lots of torrential rain squalls with quite a lot of wind in them. Sails up, sails down, canopy open, canopy closed, it was a busy trip for us both. We are so pleased to arrive in this little paradise to relax for a bit.
The islands were first called the Salut/Salvation islands by the missionaries who came there from mainland French Guyana to escape the plague. Later during the time when the islands like much of mainland, were used as a penal colony, the Islands were referred to as the Devil’s islands. In those days the place may not have seemed like the paradise they are to us today.
The Salut Islands gained notoriety because of the Dreyfus affair. Lieutenant Dreyfus was sent there in 1894, convicted of treason for leaking weapons information to the Germans. He was of Jewish origin. Due to a fair bit of anti-antisemitism among the ranks at the time the finger was pointed at him. He continually maintained his innocence throughout his incarceration and wrote hundreds of letters to protest this during his time thee. These letters are the essence of the memoir his son Pierre wrote about him in 1937. The book was called “Souvenirs Et Correspondance” and has been translated into several languages. The true spy was eventually convicted, but the army was reluctant to admit its mistake, so Dreyfus was pardoned rather than acquitted.
Joseph Conrad also wrote about the Salut islands in his story “An Anarchist” but the islands became truly famous due to Henri Charriere’s book “Papillon” and later the film that was made of that book starring famous names Dustin Hoffman and Steve McQueen.
In the book it is claimed he was called “Papillon” because of a big butterfly tattoo he had on his chest. Others say he was not much liked during his time in Iles du Salut and papillon in French as mariposa in Spanish refers rather to the fact that he was gay. Perhaps both are true.
The French authorities are very upset about Charriere’s portrayal of the place and the treatment the book says he received there. They claim that many of the incidents that he describes are untrue or did not happen to him, but happened far earlier. They say that conditions had been much improved on the Iles du Salut by the time he was brought there in 1933.
Reading the potted history of all the high profile prisoners that served time there, it seems that Henri Charrier cherry picked all the juicy bits from all of the stories and goings on that he could. He wanted to make his novel into a “best seller” so he may have embellished a few details here and there. What he did was write a good story that would keep him in royalties for the remainder of his life.
I don’t think so
The part that we, as sailors, find most difficult to believe, is that he escaped from the Islands on a raft made of Coconuts. Apparently he managed to drift to the shores of Guyana. We have sailed those choppy waters and the tides and the currents take you nowhere near the coast of mainland South America. He would have been lucky to pitch up in Barbados with only the current and the wind to help him. Without food or water he would have been dead on arrival. We think he must have been picked up by a boat somewhere, but that doesn’t make for such a good story.
The waters around the Salut islands have very strong currents and are full of sharks so not ideal for swimming or trying to escape. I did swim just a little, to clean off the bottom of the boat and didn’t have any encounters with any sharks. I got in trouble from the Gendarme for being in the water though. He came all the way out in a little rowing boat to chastise me but let me off as long as no-one else could see me. steve also got in trouble from the Gendarme for flying the drone. That was two bad strikes against us in one day.
It seems the big hungry fish only come out to play in the evenings. The first night, just as we were settling down to dinner, there was a loud bang against the hull and then another one. When we went up on deck with a torch to take a look what was making the noise. We looked into the water and there were big fish chasing each other and slapping against the side of the hull. I don’t think that has ever happened to us before. Obviously something even bigger that we couldn’t see was chasing them.
So much Wildlife
Ashore there is still lots of evidence of the island’s history as a prison camp. The old buildings and the isolation cells are still there. Some have been sensitively restored to leave you the impression of what it must have been like in former times; others are being rapidly reclaimed by nature and the voracious jungle. We saw photos of the early days when people first started to settle on the island and it was pretty bare, with only a few trees. In that part of the world though, you only need to spit the seed from a fruit you are eating and in a few short weeks a tree will start to grow.
It was a truly beautiful place unspoiled and I’d like to say peacefull but the jungle there is chock full of wild life. There are many kinds of birds singing away. There are crickets and other insects singing at full volume too, and howler monkeys shouting to be heard above all the other cacophony of nature sounds. It was actually really noisy and difficult to sleep at night. Fortunately no mosquitoes, What a blessing!
As we wondered ashore within the first half hour we saw a ton of wild life. Lizards, interesting spiders, agoutis like the small cousins of Capybara from the Guinea pig family, tiny blue swallow tailed humming birds , ring tail monkeys, and lots of beautiful butterflies. Over the week we spent there we saw so many different species of animals. Critters just kept popping out from behind every bush. The amazing thing was that many of them didn’t seem to be afraid of humans and you could get right up close to them. For us it was interesting to visit a place with so much history. I’d have loved to bring my nieces and nephews here. Not for the history though, but to see all the wildlife up close and personal. All those animals in their natural habitat not in cages or behind glass.
Out of Food
We’d have loved to stay a lot longer, but after a week in that paradise plus the 9 and a bit days it took us to get there, our supplies of fresh fruit and veggies were almost completely gone. We were even down to our last onion. A change in the wind direction and a bit of lumpy and exciting night with anchors dragging made us decide to brave the shallow channel and head into Kourou. We were also looking forward to a tour of the space station that launches our GPS satellites into the sky. We had to dredge most of the channel for them on the way in but we managed to bump our way over the sand bar without any incident. It wasn’t very far but we needed the tide to help us in so we had to wait for a while.
Once Loved Boats
We anchored again in a spot just above the pontoons which have no space for visitors, barely even for your dinghy. Sadly the pontoons are chock full of French relic sailboats that are mostly half sunk or sadly neglected and barely afloat. It looks like a boat grave yard. Such a shame!
We managed to find a place to squeeze in and headed into town on a quest for ice-cream. As my new year’s resolution was to give up booze for the year, it’s the first ice-cream parlour we are always in search of when we go ashore, not the first bar.
Well dear Squeak I hope you are enjoying the Campo in spring. We have to go now as the place wants to shut. We have to take our internet where we can get it these days. I’ll write to you soon and tell you all about our trip to the space station.
Lots of love Ally and Steve
Miss you lots! x
To see a little of the place and the wildlife we saw in the Salut Islands why not check out our Youtube Video”Devil Monkeys Jail Break”