Christmas in Cape Verde
How are you? It’s been a long time since we caught you up on our progress. We have actually arrived in Brazil now and are really enjoying the laid back life in the tropics but let me tell you about our time in Cape Verde first.
We were really sad to leave the sweet and friendly town of La Restinga. With hindsight maybe we should have stayed there to get through our pre crossing jobs list. It would have been cleaner, less rolly and provisioning for the trip would have been far easier. Gluten free is not really a concept that Cape Verde understands. We wanted to be in the next spot for Christmas though, so we had to get a move on.
We arrived with just a couple days to spare and some friends we had made in Arrecife were there to greet us. It was nice to see some friendly faces to share Christmas with.
Our first move was a reccy around town. We checked out the local market where the fruit and veg was a little suspect to be honest. Most of it looked little better than what we still had stored in our bilge, from our last provisioning in the Canaries.
We found an interesting little project of local artists in the old Police compound. They have set up a bunch of workshops, where they make all the paraphernalia that is needed for their festivals, particularly carnival. They make everything out of recycled materials. There is some fantastic work going on there!
There is one guy there, who is in charge and is paid by the local council. He is said by the rest of the team to have to do the thinking for everyone. I think that was something slightly confused in the translation, but is probably closer to the truth than they would like to admit. A communal meal is provided for all the artists each day paid for by donations from visitors such as us, so they are not quite the “Starving artists” they might be if they were sole operators.
A curious thing happened. There is another project that we encountered In Mindelo called “The Ship of Fools” www.azart.org which is a ship full of entertainers on a pilgrimage around the world in praise of folly. They landed in Mindelo and came ashore on the fishing quay with crazy costumes and instruments playing. Almost immediately, they happened upon the same project of artists that we found on our first foray into town.. What followed was a collaboration of the two projects and a show using the fool’s ship as a stage to keep all the visitors entertained over Christmas.
We had quite a low key Christmas. It was just a gathering of a bunch people from our neighbouring boats, who all piled into the floating bar at midday bringing lots of food and festive cheer. We rounded up the day on a boat called Ambition 2 being treated to drinks and Christmas Cake.
We Didn’t stay in the Marina long, it was a lot of money for what you got and it was still very rolly. After only a few days in there the line we had tied to their buoy which hadn’t been maintained or cleaned and was full of barnacles had completely worn through. We were leaving whether we wanted to or not, as the boat was one thread away from breaking loose.
We preferred to be at anchor. Thankfully the holding there was pretty good as it blew almost the entire time we were there so much so that our brand new Cape Verde curtesy flag gave up in disgust and made a break for freedom.
We worked hard from Christmas until New Year trying to get the boat ready, but some of the big jobs were changing the sails and re-tuning the rigging which needed a calm day with little wind. There weren’t too many of those while we were there. The wind howled and the harmattan dust storm which meant we could hardly see the bow of our own boat for 2 weeks spread a thick layer of dust over everything inside and out.
All that cleaning we did when we left the yard in Portugal, went to hell in a handbasket after the first day. We were not looking forward to that clean up but there was nothing to do but put up with it until we had left it far behind us.
There was a town party laid on for New Year with fireworks on the beach and bands playing in the main square and a really convivial atmosphere. It seemed like every single person from the whole of the Island of Sao Vicente and maybe some other islands besides were there. Who knew there were so many people living there?
It was a great atmosphere and everyone was in a party mood. Just as well because there was not a single security person or policeman to be seen anywhere and there was a crowd of over 2000 people in a very small space. We saw the New Year in and stayed for a couple of the bands but the party raged on until 6 the next morning. We headed back to the boat long before that. I think we must be getting old!
We would have liked to take a trip to San Antao the neighbouring island which is supposed to be very beautiful. With such poor visibility though, any film or photos we might have taken would have been pointless. So we kept our heads down and got on with the”to-do-list” so we could clear out of there a.s.a.p.
Finally we headed off to Brava the most southerly of the Cape Verde Islands. We had such a lovely welcome when we arrived, the locals were so friendly. A few local fishermen helped us tie our lines ashore to keep us pointing out into the bay. It’s only a small anchorage and there were another couple of visiting boats but we squeezed in easily with a little help from the locals.
We were recommended to eat dinner at Isabelle’s place. As we didn’t want to dig into our supplies for the long trip too much, we took up the invitation. It seems to be the custom in Brava as it happened again the following day, to treat your guests to a mountain of food. We couldn’t possibly get through all of it. Plates kept coming with meat, fish, all the local vegetables and a salad, which we really didn’t need. It all came to only a few escudos.
The following day we went on a hike with John John our guide, no, it’s not a mistake, he calls himself John John. He was super friendly and informative and showed us all the local fauna and flora as well as explaining all the history, progress and politics of his tiny island. We had a super day and the views were spectacular.
It was a long steep climb down from Lomba Lomba at the top of the island to Faja de Agua and the next day, with our out of shape leg muscles screaming we though he might have secretly been trying to kill us. We had wanted to do a second hike with John John to another part of the island the following day, but our poor little legs just couldn’t face the pain.
We gave ourselves a day off before setting out into the waves on the long leg of the trip to Brazil. . It was really lumpy the first 5 days of the passage and every time we had to brace ourselves against the motion or climb up and down the companionway our muscles kept reminding us of the hike.
All the People we met on Brava were super friendly and made us feel so at home there. We wished we had left Mindelo weeks ago or not even gone there, but headed straight for Brava. It was such a lovely place. It’s like the forgotten island, the poor relation or runt of the litter as far as the Cape Verde islands are concerned. They get the dregs of the kitty when it comes to any funding that Cape Verde receives and there is a lot of poverty and generally poor conditions there.
Many people there, have relations in America, Cape Verdeans who have emigrated. They send funds and supplies to their families back in the Cape Verde’s from time to time. For those people life is a little better, but for many it’s a very hard existence.
Lots of things still have to be done by hand there, as there is no machinery available. Even the island’s petrol stations are supplied with barrels that arrive by ship and have to be hand-balled onto trucks to be taken up the hill to the main town of Sintra Nova. There the fuel is filled into a big tank at the gas station, which keeps the island ‘s vehicles supplied with fuel.
Water is also a huge problem on the island. It too is often supplied in barrels to keep the population alive. They have had a draught for the past couple of years and many of the reservoirs are empty or nearly empty and the mountain streams have run dry. The Island could really use a desalination plant but that needs funds that they simply don’t have.
We left the Cape Verde’s feeling that the misery we had felt in the thick of the dust storm had been washed clean by the friendliness and rugged beauty of Brava. Our spirits were well and truly lifted. Now it just remained for our boat to be washed clean too. We were praying for some tropical rain on the way, to give our mast, rigging, decks and sails a good swill. As luck would have it, the universe provided!
Well, I guess I’m going to leave you for now. I’ll tell you all about the crossing and arriving in Brazil in my next letter.
We still miss you lots
Lots of love A&S x
To see our latest Youtube Video about our “Cape Verde Capers” hit the link bellow
You can also see some of the Photos we took by checking out our Instagram page.